How to Buy Pearls, According to a Jewellery Expert

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Q: Pearl prices vary greatly from one another. What qualities do high-quality Pearls work?

A: Before the 1920s, when pearl culture became popular (notable Japanese pearl farmer Kokichi Mikimoto was among the first several to submit a patent), divers would frequently risk their lives and great discomfort to extract natural pearls from the Persian Gulf’s bottom. At the time, they were praised as the ultimate prestige symbol and were thought to be among the rarest and most valuable jewels. Today, all pearls, except antique pieces, are cultivated, which means that a living mussel or oyster is seeded with a little bead or a piece of natural tissue, or both, by pearl farmers. Eventually, the seed is covered in nacre, or mother-of-pearl, the same substance that lines the mollusk’s shell. The pearl will probably be more glossy and precious if the nacre layers are smoother and more even. Pearls were once available to a small number of people, but with the widespread practice of cultivation, they are now within the reach of many.

 

woman wearing pearls jewelry set

Although baroque pearls have gained immense popularity recently, you have probably encountered smooth, spherical pearls, which are still appreciated more highly than flat, oval, or other asymmetrical shapes. These fantastically organic-shaped diamonds were formerly thought to be fortunate accidents that frequently happened during the production of spherical pearls. This is something to take into account when looking at their frequently wildly disparate pricing points, which have only increased significantly in recent years as a result of the increase in demand. It’s also important to remember that because they originate from living organisms, all pearls—cultivated or not—are categorized as “organic” in the trade.

One of the most mysterious gems available is the non-baroque pearl, which appears to be identical to other pearls at first glance. But understanding their contrasts makes the stark disparity in their principles clear. The most affordable pearls are freshwater pearls, which are obtained from mussels. This is mainly because they may be cultivated in as little as six months, yielding up to thirty pearls per shell. Although they were frequently tiny and rice-shaped in the 1990s, freshwater pearls have advanced significantly since then. These days, they are easily obtained in perfectly round specimens that are around 13 mm in diameter. This implies that, at a fraction of the cost, you may be able to get the appearance of much more expensive South Sea types. 

 

woman wearing pearls

However, the highest quality of cultured pearls comes from saltwater kinds derived from oysters, such as Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian pearls; these can fetch as much as four or even five figures for a necklace. It frequently takes years to culture a single saltwater specimen per shell, in contrast to freshwater pearls. Additionally, they must meet the highest standards for the distinctive characteristics of this gem, which include a nearly flawless nacre, a pinkish overtone (as opposed to a green tone, which is far less desirable), an exquisite shine or “lustre,” and an eye-catching “orient” play of color.

The most prevalent type in this group and sometimes regarded as the entry-level saltwater variety are akaya pearls. Because they are the least expensive, they typically measure only seven millimeters, yet their opulent, mirrored sheen sets them apart from all other freshwater pearls. The South Sea and Tahitian kinds are considered the best because of their enormous size (often exceeding 15 mm) and their natural body hues (grey and black with a variety of stunning overtones for Tahitians, and silver and gold for South Sea gems). Their pricing tags are typically the highest since matching a full bracelet or necklace with their characteristic colors is very difficult and time-consuming.

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