The Torah prohibits wearing garments made of mixed wool and linen, known as shatnez, without providing a specific reason for this rule. While many Jews selectively follow ancient traditions—such as avoiding pork but indulging in shrimp—considering the kosher status of clothing is often overlooked. Learning about shatnez through a Wikipedia article during my research on Jewish textile traditions for my Adult Secular B’Mitzvah with the Morris Winchevsky Centre in Toronto, I found this fiber-focused statute intriguing.
Orthodox Jews called “shatnez checkers,” scrutinize fabrics under microscopes, likely identifying the scaly texture of wool and the bamboo-like structure of linen. The prohibition is clear in the text: wool and linen should not mix. But surely, there’s more to consider so in this blog we will discuss Shatnez and sustainability acceptability in the age of fast fashion.
As a textile conservator, and a passionate knitter, quilter, and weaver, the challenge of selecting the right materials is a familiar one. Both wool and linen have distinct, wonderful properties. Thus, learning that combining them is forbidden felt both amusing and disappointing. This perplexing law stayed with me as I finished my b-mitzvah project—embroidering a challah cover and quilting a matzah bag using cotton and linen. Despite the desire to incorporate wool, I adhered to tradition for these ritual items. Understanding the rules seemed essential before breaking them.
Raised by Reform Jews and atheists who limited my Jewish education to the Rugrats Hanukkah special, I’m far from a Torah scholar. However, as a textile scholar and maker concerned with preservation and sustainability, I frequently advocate for natural fibers like cotton or wool over synthetics like polyester and acrylic. Modern clothing rarely contains wool and linen blends, although I recently saw an ad for a Merino wool and linen t-shirt, hinting at a possible shatnez resurgence. Generally, both fibers have been replaced by cheaper synthetics in the fashion industry, appearing mostly in high-end designer pieces or sustainable fashion brands.
Natural fibers are durable and easier to repair, while synthetics often pill, yellow, overstretch, and shed microplastics. Although shatnez originated before synthetic materials became prevalent, it prompts us to consider our clothing choices. Jewish laws don’t address synthetic fabrics, but from an environmental perspective, their impact is significant.
The prohibition on shatnez applies specifically to sheep’s wool and flax linen, not other animal or plant fibers. Deuteronomy explicitly states not to wear wool and linen together, alongside other mixed prohibitions like women wearing men’s clothes and vice versa, suggesting a contextual interpretation. Leviticus more broadly forbids mingling different materials. The reasons for shatnez are speculative, ranging from practical—preventing uneven shrinkage during laundry—to religious, with wool and linen garments reserved for priests. Perhaps shatnez is sacred, intended for divine use only.
Wearing shatnez could symbolize rejecting binary thinking or embracing sacred transgression, akin to wearing gender-affirming clothing. We live in a world vastly different from the one that defined shatnez, necessitating a modern interpretation that encourages thoughtful consideration of our clothing materials and their origins.
Blends of wool and linen, rare in today’s fashion, offer a natural alternative to common poly-cotton and stretch-denim blends. Fast-fashion brands often greenwash products by using recycled synthetics, but blended fabrics remain difficult to recycle. Historically, natural fibers were reused and repurposed, unlike modern synthetics, which have short lifespans and long decay periods. Establishing personal fashion commandments requires considering a garment’s end-of-life as well as its creation.
Fast fashion might be our contemporary shatnez. Jewish history in the garment industry, including the formation of unions advocating for workers’ rights, is significant. Today, large-scale fashion production often exploits labor in other parts of the world, overshadowing our ancestors’ contributions to worker rights.
Modern interpretations of shatnez could inspire renewed interest in our materials and a better understanding of those we choose to avoid. Not all ancient Jewish laws need to be discarded; some can be adapted to fit our lives better.
Photo credit Pinterest
By Yogesh
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